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Perennials

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What’s the Difference Between an Annual and a Perennial?

Should you pick annuals or perennials when planting your garden? Here's a rundown on the differences between these two types of plants and the pros and cons for each.

You see the words annual and perennial on plant tags and in garden books. What do these terms mean, and why should you care? Simply put, annual plants die in the winter season. You must replant them every year. Perennials come back every year. You only plant them once. Here’s a rundown of annual versus perennial.
Perennials are less work than annuals. They grow back each year from roots that go dormant in the soil in the winter. Annuals only grow for one season. New plants come from seeds. So why would anyone plant annuals instead of perennials? Annuals produce more flowers and bloom for a longer period of time than perennials. Annuals bloom from spring till the first frost. Perennials generally bloom for a single season: summer, spring or fall. There are ever-blooming perennials that bloom longer, but annuals produce the most flowers for the longest amount of time. There is no such thing as an annual perennial. A plant either lives for one year or it lives for many years.
Annuals produce more flowers because they have just one season to make enough seed to reproduce. To make a lot of seeds, the plants needs a lot of flowers. Annuals are making the most out of the short life they have. Since annuals live for just one season, they aren’t assigned climate zones. An annual will grow for the same amount of time in Michigan as it will in Florida.
Perennials don’t have the same pressure to reproduce as annuals do. They will be around from year to year, so they put their energy into growing strong roots instead of growing lots of flowers.
Some of the most popular perennials are coneflowers, blanket flowers, clematis, veronica, Russian sage, yarrow, peonies and coreopsis. Popular annuals include zinnias, cosmos, sunflowers, petunias, bachelor’s button and marigolds.
Should you pick annuals or perennials when planting your garden? If you want showy and colorful plants for a single season, choose annuals. Annuals also let you change the color palette in your garden every year. If you want permanence and as little maintenance as possible, choose perennials. You’ll have a less colorful garden that will be the same year after year.
For a garden that has the best of both worlds, plant a mix of annual and perennial plants. You’ll have flowers everywhere and a backbone of plants that provide structure and reliability.

What is a Perennial?

Curious about the difference between annuals and perennials? Here's the 411 on what it means to be a perennial plant.
You see the word perennial on plant tags and on garden web sites, but what is a perennial? The meaning of perennial is living for a long time. That’s what perennial plants do. They grow back every year, season after season. You only plant them once, saving money on your garden budget. Someone once said that friends don't let friends plant annuals. That's harsh, but you have to love a plant that needs so little from you.
Unlike annuals, which die each winter and must be replanted each spring, perennials grow back from roots that go dormant in the soil in the winter. Perennials can live as long as 15 years, or in the case of peonies, a human lifetime. Others, like mums, are short-lived, lasting just three or four years.
Perennials tend to be slower growing than annuals. They generally bloom for a single season, summer, spring or fall. There are everblooming perennials that bloom longer, but perennials are less about flowers than they are longevity. Perennials don’t bloom as much as annuals because they don’t have the same pressure to reproduce. They will be around for years, so they put their energy into growing strong roots instead of growing lots of flowers that will produce lots of seeds.
Some of the most popular perennials are coneflowers, blanket flowers, hydrangeas, clematis, daylilies, hostas, Siberian iris, delphinium, Veronica, Russian sage, catmint, yarrow, peonies, liriope, baptisia, sedum, Oriental poppies and coreopsis.
Perennials are good choice for gardens because they’re low maintenance plants that tend to be hardy. They don’t need a lot of help from you to survive. Keep them weeded and mulched, deadhead spent flowers and cut them back in the winter and they’ll be back in the spring. Perennials give resilience and consistency to your garden, providing a backbone around which you can plant short-lived flowers.
How do you grow perennials? You can buy container-grown plants from a nursery and transplant them, or you can buy seeds and sow them directly into the ground.
One of the best things about perennials is they grow bigger and better each year. Once established, perennials reproduce by developing colonies of new plants with their own roots and leaves. Dig up the new plants and transplant them elsewhere in your garden if you want more, give them to friends if you don’t. Some perennials reproduce so quickly they’ll overrun a bed if you don’t dig them out. The process of pulling clumps of perennials apart to create new ones is called dividing. The best time to do this is spring or fall. Dividing perennials keeps them healthy, too, by not letting them crowd themselves out.
Perennials reward each year. Pick varieties that thrive in your climate and get growing.

Growing Perennials

Herbaceous perennials generally live for three or more seasons, but usually the tops die back to the ground each fall. The crown and roots of the plant resume growth in spring. A few perennials are evergreen or keep a green rosette of leaves at the base in winter. Hardy perennials can live through the winter without protection.

Many plants, such as cannas and dahlias, are hardy perennials in South Carolina that will not live through the winter outside farther north. On the other hand, many of the perennials that grow well in the Northeast United States or England will not tolerate hot, humid summers. Since books about perennials are often written for those cooler climates, it is important to use care in selecting plants that are adapted to Southern heat and humidity.

Ornamental Features

Perennials provide year-round color and interest, with endless variations in colors, sizes, habits and time of bloom. Although some perennials flower for only a few weeks, the ever-changing color display forms much of the excitement of a perennial garden. Many perennials will re-bloom in the warm climate of South Carolina.

Some perennials, such as ferns and hostas, are grown principally for their beautiful foliage. Include foliage plants to extend seasonal color and texture in the garden.

Landscape Use

While the traditional English perennial border was entirely made up of herbaceous perennials, they are attractively used in combination with other plants in the total landscape. Perennials are easily used as ground covers, mixed with annuals, grown in containers, and used as accents or specimen plants.

There are perennials for full sun, part-sun, or heavy shade, and for dry, moist, or wet soil. Select perennials that are suited to the growing conditions where they will be planted. Select a planting area with good air circulation to help avoid diseases.

Soil Preparation

Good soil preparation is extremely important for growing perennials, since they may be in place for many years. Deeply spade the beds to a depth of eight to 10 inches. Amend clay soils by mixing in at least 2 inches of composted pine bark, composted leaf mold, or a pine bark-based soil conditioner to improve the soil drainage and aeration. Improve water retention in sandy soils by mixing in 2 to 3 inches of composted leaf mold, peat moss, manure, or a peat moss-based potting soil. Good soil drainage is critical to the success of most perennials. Raised beds can be used to ensure adequate drainage.

Base fertilizer and lime applications on the results of a soil test for best results. In the absence of a soil test, add either a complete fertilizer such as 10-10-10 at the rate of 1 pound per 100 square feet of bed area, or add either a complete slow-release fertilizer or complete organic fertilizer following label directions. In coastal counties, such as Horry, Charleston, and Beaufort, that have soils with more than adequate phosphorus, use ¾ pound of a 15-0-15 fertilizer per 100 square feet of bed area. For most fertilizers, a pint is a pound.

A pH of 6.0 to 6.5 is ideal for most perennials. Most South Carolina soils are very acidic (except for some areas along the coast) and require the addition of lime to correct pH. In the absence of a soil test, add 4 pounds of pelletized lime (3 pints) per 100 square feet of bed area. Incorporate lime and fertilizer into the top 4 to 6 inches of soil after mixing in the soil amendments. Rake the soil surface smooth.

Planting

Most perennials should be planted in the fall or early spring. Fall planting gives the plant more time to become established before the start of active growth in the spring. Fall-planted perennials are usually well-established before hot weather. Fall planting should be finished at least 6 weeks before hard-freezing weather occurs.

Early spring is also considered a good time to plant perennials. Planting early, just after killing frosts have passed, is better than later spring planting.

Many perennials can be grown from seed, but most gardeners prefer to start with established plants. Perennials are available grown in containers, field-grown, or shipped bare-root and dormant.

If plants are somewhat pot-bound at planting time, loosen the roots around the bottom and sides of the root ball and spread them out in the bottom of the planting hole. To encourage side root growth, make the hole twice as wide as deep. Refill the hole, firming the soil in around the plant to avoid air pockets. Be sure the crown of the plant (the point where roots and top join) is even with the soil surface.

Watering

Water the new perennials thoroughly following planting to settle the soil around the roots. Pay especially close attention to watering the first few weeks while plants develop their root systems. Adequate moisture is essential for the growth of perennials. Most perennials require at least 1 to 1½ inches of water per week from rain or irrigation. More may be needed during very hot weather.

To promote deep root growth, water thoroughly and deeply. Allow the soil surface to dry before watering again. Soaker hoses and drip irrigation are ideal watering methods since they save water and avoid wetting leaves and flowers.

Mulch perennials with a 1- to 2-inch layer of compost, pine bark or pine straw to help keep down weeds and conserve moisture. Avoid overly heavy mulching to help prevent crown rot.

Maintenance

Weed control should usually be done by hand-weeding or with the use of herbicides to avoid damaging shallow roots. Read and follow label directions before using any herbicide. Do not apply pre-emergence herbicides around newly planted perennials, as these products will stop root growth.

Maintenance fertilization should be based on the results of a soil test. In the absence of a soil test, apply a complete, slow-release fertilizer, such as a 12-6-6, at the rate of 1 to 2 pounds per 100 square feet of bed area just before new shoots emerge in the early spring. For additional growth, repeat the fertilizer application in 6 weeks. Alternatively, complete organic fertilizers may also be used. However, if a soil test reveals that the soil pH is above 6.5, use an acid-forming, complete fertilizer instead, such as an azalea & camellia fertilizer, or use an acid-forming, complete organic fertilizer. Avoid touching any emerging leaves with fertilizer to avoid leaf damage. Alternatively, apply 4 to 7 pounds of a complete organic fertilizer, such as Espoma Garden-tone (3-4-4) per 100 square feet.

Many newly planted perennials will not bloom the first year. A few, such as peonies, may take several years to bloom heavily.

Many perennials should be staked to prevent them from bending or falling over during wind and rain. When staking is done correctly, the plants grow to cover the stakes. A floppy perennial plant may be an indication that the plant is not receiving adequate sunlight and needs to be relocated.

Remove old flowers to encourage re-bloom on perennials. Many perennials should be cut back to ground level after bloom is finished to encourage new leaf growth from the base.

Remove dead foliage and stems in the fall, and mulch to protect crowns and roots from alternating mild and freezing weather.

Most perennials eventually become overcrowded and require division. Many perennials are also easily propagated in this way. Other methods of propagating perennials include stem cuttings, root cuttings and seed.

Problems

Perennials vary considerably in their susceptibility to pests. Selection of resistant species and cultivars, proper site selection, and good cultural practices will prevent many disease problems.

Perennials for Various Uses

Many perennials are available in several cultivars with different color, height or other attributes. Some, such as the heat-and humidity-tolerant cultivar of lamb’s ears called ‘Big Ears,’ are better suited to our climate than the species. Consult with a local nursery person or Extension specialist for cultivars that are especially suited to your area.

When and How to Plant Perennials

Keep perennials beautiful year after year by following these expert planting tips.
Get your garden off to a good start by planting your perennials at the right time and handling them the right way. One guiding philosophy: Perennial plants are all about the roots. Keeping the roots strong and healthy is the number one consideration when planting perennials. It’s those roots that will keep the plants coming up year after year. Here’s what you need to know about planting perennials to give them what they need to grow up and be beautiful.

Fall or Spring?

Knowing when to plant perennials is essential. Spring is generally the best time to plant, for obvious reasons. The soil is warming, the sun is shining, the days are lengthening and the rain if falling. Spring is also a good time to divide existing perennials that have gotten bigger and better and plant the smaller pieces in other locations.

Fall is a good planting time for perennials that bloom in the spring or summer. Fall planting gives them time to grow strong roots to prepare for the big flower show the following year. Another plus to fall planting: Nurseries are cutting prices on perennials at the end of the season, so you can save a lot of money.
Do not plant in the summer. It’s too hot, the days are too long and rain is unreliable in many climates. There’s too much stress for a new plant to thrive. And winter? No. Just, no.

How Do I Plant?

New plants come in three forms. Knowing how to plant perennials correctly depends on which form you’re planting.
Container-grown perennial plants are the ones you buy at a nursery or plant center, already growing in a pot. They’re the easiest to transplant successfully. Dig a hole twice as wide as the container but no deeper. Pull the plant out of the pot, gently loosen the roots and place in the hole. Fill the hole with soil mixed with compost and water well. Fertilize a week after planting.
Bare-root perennial plants are less expensive than the container-grown ones, but they’re a little trickier. They are just as billed: a clump of plant roots. They’re not for beginners. Soak them in water before planting them in the ground. Add compost to the soil at time of planting and pamper them till they sprout leaves.
Seeds are the least expensive way to start a garden of perennial plants. Growing from seed takes more skill and patience than transplanting container-grown perennial plants. Perennials are slow growing, so if you sow seeds directly in the ground after the last frost you won’t have adult plants till late in the season. Best to start them in the winter, indoors, in small pots and pamper them until they are large enough to transplant outdoors.

Best Perennials for Shade

Looking for something to plant in that shady area of your garden? These perennials thrive without sunlight and add great garden color in beds, borders and containers.

That shady spot in your garden doesn’t have to be bare. There are shade perennials that will thrive without sun. Plant them once and they will come back every year. Most feature colorful foliage but some will produce flowers. Most need a moderate amount of water and moist, rich soil. Plant these shade-loving perennials in beds, borders and containers for great garden color. You’ll have it made in the shade. And the part shade, too.

Those marked with a * will tolerate the most shade.

Acanthus mollis – Bear’s Breech

Alchemilla mollis – Lady’s Mantle

Amsonia tabernaemontana – Blue Star

Anemone species

Aquilegia species – Columbine

Arum italicum – Painted Arum *

Asarum species – Wild Gingers *

Aspidistra elatior – Cast Iron Plant *

Astilbe x arendsii – Astilbe

Begonia grandis – Hardy Begonia

Bergenia cordifolia – Heartleaf Bergenia

Brunnera macrophylla – Siberian Bugloss

Carex elata – Golden Sedge

Ceratostigma plumbaginoides – Plumbago

Chasmanthium latifolium – Upland River Oats

Chelone obliqua – Turtlehead

Chrysogonum virginianum – Green and Gold

Cimicifuga species – Bugbane

Convallaria majalis – Lily-of-the-Valley *

Cyclamen species – Hardy Cyclamen

Dicentra species – Bleeding Heart

Digitalis species – Foxglove

Epimedium species – Barrenwort *

Ferns * (most)

Galium odoratum – Sweet Woodruff *

Geranium maculatum – Wild Cranesbill

Gillenia trifoliata – Bowman’s Root

Helleborus foetidus – Bearfoot Hellebore

Helleborus x hybridus – Lenten Rose

Hexastylis species – Gingers

Heuchera species & hybrids – Coral Bells

Hosta species – Plantain Lily

Iris cristata – Dwarf Crested Iris

Lamium maculatum – Spotted Dead Nettle *

Lobelia cardinalis – Cardinal Flower *

Lobelia siphilitica – Great Blue Lobelia *

Mertensia virginica – Virginia Bluebells *

Myosotis sylvatica – Forget-me-not

Phlox divaricata – Woodland Phlox

Phlox stolonifera – Creeping Woodland Phlox

Polygonatum species – Solomon’s Seal *

Primula species – Primrose

Pulmonaria species – Lungwort *

Salvia koyame – Japanese Yellow Sage

Saxifraga stolonifera – Strawberry Begonia

Shortia galacifolia – Oconee Bells *

Sisyrinchium angustifolium – Blue-Eyed Grass

Smilacina racemosa – False Solomon’s Seal

Spigelia marilandica – Indian Pink

Thalictrum species – Meadow Rue

Tiarella species – Foam Flower *

Tradescantia virginiana – Spiderwort *

Tricyrtis species – Toad Lily *

Trillium species – Wake Robin *

Viola species – Violet *

Best Perennials Tolerant of Moist or Damp Soils

Those marked with a * will tolerate wetter soils.

Acorus gramineus – Sweet Flag *

Amsonia tabernaemontana – Blue Star

Aster novae-angliae – New England Aster

Astilbe x arendsii – Astilbe

Canna species – Canna *

Carex species – Sedge *

Chelone species – Turtlehead *

Cimicifuga species – Bugbane

Colocasia esculenta – Elephant’s Ear *

Crinum species – Milk and Wine Lily, Crinum

Cyperus alternifolius – Umbrella Sedge *

Eupatorium purpureum – Joe-Pye Weed

Ferns, many

Filipendula species – Meadow Sweet

Galium odoratum – Sweet Woodruff

Helianthus angustifolius – Swamp Sunflower *

Hemerocallis species – Daylily

Hibiscus coccineus – Texas Star *

Iris ensata – Japanese Iris *

Iris virginica – Blue Flag*

Iris laevigata – Japanese Water Iris*

Iris hybrids – Louisiana Iris *

Ligularia species – Golden Ray *

Lobelia cardinalis – Cardinal Flower *

Lobelia siphilitica – Great Blue Lobelia *

Matteuccia pensylvanica – Ostrich Fern

Monarda species – Bee Balm

Myosotis sylvatica – Forget-me-not

Osmunda regalis – Royal Fern *

Physostegia virginiana – Obedient Plant

Primula species – Primrose

Tradescantia virginiana – Spiderwort

Zantedeschia aethiopeca – Calla *

Perennials for Hot, Dry Conditions

Achillea species – Yarrow

Agapanthus africanus – Lily-of-the-Nile

Agave parryi – Hardy Century Plant

Andropogon species – Bluestem Grass

Artemisia species – Artemesia

Asclepias tuberosa – Butterfly Weed

Baptisia species – False Indigo

Belamcanda – Blackberry Lily

Coreopsis species – Coreopsis

Cortaderia selloana – Pampas Grass

Crocosmia x Curtonus ‘Lucifer’

Delosperma cooperi – Hardy Ice Plant

Festuca ovina – Blue Fescue

Gaillardia species – Blanket Flower

Gaura lindheimeri – Whirling Butterflies

Helianthus species – Perennial Sunflower

Hemerocallis species and hybrids – Daylily

Hesperaloe parviflora – False Red Yucca

Iris hybrids – Bearded Iris

Kniphofia uvaria – Red Hot Poker

Lantana species – Lantana

Lavandula x intermedia – Provence Lavender

Liatris species – Gayfeather

Limonium latifolium – Sea Lavender

Nepeta species – Catmint

Oenothera species – Evening Primrose, Sundrops

Opuntia humifusa – Prickly Pear Cactus

Perovskia atriplicifolia – Russian Sage

Phlomis species – Jerusalem Sage

Phlox subulata – Thrift

Rudbeckia species – Black-eyed Susan

Ruellia brittoniana – Mexican Petunia

Salvia greggi – Texas Sage

Santolina species – Lavender Cotton

Sedum species – Stonecrop

Sempervivum tectorum – Hens & Chickens

Solidago odora – Sweet Goldenrod

Stachys byzantina – Lamb’s Ear

Verbena species – Verbena

Yucca species – Yucca

Perennials for Poor, Sandy Soil

Achillea species – Yarrow

Anthemis tinctoria – Golden Marguerite

Asclepias tuberosa – Butterfly Weed

Baptisia species – Wild Indigo

Belamcanda chinensis – Blackberry Lily

Euphorbia species – Spurge

Gaillardia species – Blanket Flower

Gaura lindheimerii – Whirling Butterflies

Hemerocallis species – Daylily

Hesperaloe parviflora – False Red Yucca

Lantana species – Lantana

Plumbago auriculata – Plumbago

Salvia greggi – Texas Sage

Setcrasea pallida – Purple Heart

Yucca species – Yucca

10 Best Perennials and Flowers for Full-Sun

Got a super sunny spot in your garden?
These sun-loving flowering perennials thrive in the direct sunlight.
Fill that sunny spot in your garden with flowers for the sun that thrive in long days of bright light. Full-sun perennials need six to eight hours of direct sun per day. They tend to produce lots of blooms, so they’ll add flower power to your yard or garden. Here’s a list of flowering perennials for sun that will bring zing to summer:

Coneflowers: Heat- and drought-tolerant coneflowers are a staple of summer gardens. These flowers for the sun produce cheerful, daisy-like flowers. Purple is the most common color of blooms but there are also varieties with white, orange and yellow flowers.

Black-Eyed Susan: This iconic yellow flower blooms like crazy from early summer to frost. It’s one of the most drought-tolerant flowers for sun and will grow in poor soil. Pinch off spent blooms and you’ll get armloads of flowers.

Hardy Hibiscus: The only thing this plant has in common with its fragile tropical cousins is a love of sun. One of the showiest flowering perennials for sun, hardy hibiscus produces blooms the size of dinner plates in red, pink, white and yellow.

Lobelia: This water-loving plant produces spikes of deep red, pink, white or blue flowers with deep green to reddish purple foliage. It loves water, so it’s a good choice for low areas in your garden where you want flowering perennials, full sun.

Coreopsis: This easy-to-grow perennial thrives in dry, sunny locations. It blooms all summer in a wide range of colors and sizes. ‘Moonbeam’ and ‘Zagreb’ varieties produce drifts of yellow or pink daisy-like flowers in the sun. ‘Early Sunrise’ has a larger, orange bloom.

Yarrow: This sun-lover produces clusters of flat-topped clusters of flowers in red, yellow or pink atop ferny, silver-gray foliage. Yarrow is drought and heat tolerant and is a good choice for a spot that’s hot and dry.

Butterfly Weed: With weed in its name, you might think this is a garden nuisance, but butterfly weed is one of the hardiest flowers for sun. Its clusters of bright, orange-yellow flowers attract monarch and other butterflies.

False Indigo: Also known as baptisia, this shrubby perennial grows stalks of blue, white, purple or yellow flowers in the sun. Its blue-green foliage makes plants lovely after the flowers are gone.

Red Hot Poker: This is one of the most exotic-looking flowers for sun. Spikes of red, yellow, white or orange tube-shaped flowers grow from grassy, gray-green foliage. It’s striking in groupings or as a single, dramatic specimen plant. It’s a hummingbird magnet.

Shasta Daisy: A long-time garden favorite for those who want perennial flowers, full sun, Shastas have white blooms that look like the flowers children draw. It’s leggy and may need staking. Shastas are a good flower to cut because they have a long vase-life.

Attractive Foliage

Those marked with a * are gray or silvers that tolerate heat and humidity.

Acanthus species – Bear’s Breech

Alchemilla mollis – Lady’s Mantle

Artemisia ‘Powis Castle’ – Wormwood *

Baptisia species – False Indigo

Chrysanthemum pacificum – Gold & Silver Mum

Cynara cardunculus – Cardoon

Delosperma cooperi – Hardy Ice Plant *

Dianthus gratianopolitanus – Cheddar Pink *

Helleborus x hybridus – Lenten Rose

Heuchera species – Coral Bells

Hosta species and hybrids – Plantain Lily

Iris pallida ‘Variegata’ – Variegated Sweet Iris

Lamium maculatum – Spotted Dead Nettle

Marrubium incanum – Silver Horehound *

Opuntia humifusa – Prickly Pear

Ornamental Grasses

Phlomis fruticosa – Jerusalem Sage *

Polygonatum species – Solomon’s Seal

Pulmonaria species – Lungwort

Santolina chamaecyparissus – Lavender Cotton *

Sedum species – Stonecrop

Sempervivum tectorum – Hen-and-chicks

Stachys byzantina ‘Big Ears’ – Lamb’s Ear *

Teucrium fruticans – Silver Germander *

10 Colorful Perennials

Add color to any yard with these beautiful red, yellow, blue, pink and white perennial flowers.
Perennial flowers come in a rainbow of colors. Red, yellow, blue, pink, white, you name it, there’s a perennial that will make your color wishes come true. Here’s a list of colorful perennials that will give you a garden of many colors.
Yellow

Black-Eyed Susan: This classic flower of summer produces armloads of sunny, yellow blooms. ‘Goldsturm’ is one of the best yellow perennial flowers around. Plant it in masses for mounds of color. It’s drought tolerant and will grow in poor soil.
Daylily: Daylilies come in an endless variety of colors and flower types but if it’s a yellow flower perennial you’re after, try ‘Stella De Oro.’ It will bloom again and again as long as you cut off the spent blooms.
Blue

Hydrangeas: One of the most popular blue perennial flowers, this medium to large shrub bears big, globe-shaped heads of flowers. ‘Nikko Blue’ is a beloved cultivar that makes rich, gorgeous blue flowers that are fabulous in a vase. Hydrangeas like light shade and need a medium amount of water.
Delphinium: This old-fashioned favorite produces spikes of blue flowers. The biggest of these blue flowering perennials can reach 6 feet tall, but if you don’t have room for a giant, try ‘Blue Butterfly,’ which bears brilliant blue flowers on 12 to 18-inch plants.
White

Shasta Daisy: A garden favorite, Shastas have daisy-like blooms with white petals around a yellow eye. These white flowering perennials look like the flowers children draw. ‘Becky’ is one of the larger cultivars, reaching heights of 3 to 4 feet tall.
Hardy Hibiscus: Unlike its fragile tropical cousins, hardy hibiscus can survive northern winters. It’s a showy flower that produces dinner-plate sized blooms. ‘Disco Belle White’ has white flowers with pink-tinged petals around a maroon center. And how can you not love a flower with “disco” in its name?
Pink

Hollyhock: Bring old-fashioned beauty to your border with hollyhocks, which produce 6-foot spires of flowers. ‘Crème de Cassis’ bears deep pink perennial flowers that fade to pale pink at the tips of its petals.
Dianthus: This compact plant makes a good groundcover. Its silvery foliage makes a thick mat and it’s covered with blooms in the spring. ‘Firewitch’ bears magenta-pink blooms that smell like cloves.
Red

Canna: Cannas are tropical-looking lilies with big, paddle-shaped leaves and flowers in hot oranges, reds, yellows and bicolors. For really red perennial flowers, try ‘Australia’ which has crimson red flowers on dramatic black foliage.
Red Hot Poker: Hummingbirds love this exotic plant and you will, too. Spikes of tube-shaped flowers grow from grassy, gray-green foliage. It’s striking in groupings or as a single, dramatic specimen plant. ‘Alcazar’ has bright red flower-spikes fringed with yellow.

10 Tall Perennial Flowers

Whether you're looking for privacy or a dramatic garden backdrop, planting these tall perennial flowers in your yard will do the trick.

Grow a living privacy fence. Hide an ugly view. Plant a stand of tall perennial flowers to screen your yard from the world. These big plants are also good to make a dramatic backdrop in a garden. Here’s a list of tall garden flowers:

Hardy Hibiscus: This perennial shrub grows 7 to 9 feet tall, as big as an ornamental tree. It produces showy flowers in red, pink and white, a foot in diameter. The only thing this giant has in common with its fragile, tropical kin is its exotic looking blooms. It can survive winters as far north as Zone 5.

Oriental Lily: Hardy beauties grow from 4 to 6 feet tall and bear big, showy flowers in white, red and pink. They’re sweet-smelling, tall perennial flowers that are great for bouquets.

Delphinium: These old-fashioned, tall garden flowers produces spikes of blooms in color-saturated tones of blue, pink, purple and white. The biggest varieties can reach 6 feet tall.

Joe Pye Weed: Butterflies love these tall perennial plants and you will, too, if you’re looking for big. Joe Pye grows up to 7 feet tall and 4 feet wide. It bears clusters of pale pink-purple flowers that smell like vanilla.

Cutleaf Coneflower: The cut leaf is not a coneflower at all. It’s in the same family as black-eyed Susan's. It can grow to a towering 9 feet tall and is covered with yellow, daisy-like flowers with coneflower-like drooping petals and domed center disks.

Hollyhock: A staple of cottage gardens, hollyhock will bring old-fashioned beauty to your perennial border. Hollyhocks produce blooms in hot pink, red, white or black on 6 to 8-foot-tall spires. Technically it’s a biennial, but it self-sows and multiplies, so you shouldn’t need to replant.

Canna: Cannas look tropical, but they’re winter hardy to zone 7. These perennial flowers grow as tall as 6 feet, with big, paddle-shaped leaves and blooms in red, orange, yellow, cream and bicolor.

Maximillian Sunflower: These look like their annual cousins, but they bloom in late summer and keep making flowers in the fall. Maximillians grow 4 to 7 feet tall and produce branches full of sunny yellow flowers.

Red Hot Poker: This exotic looking plant grows 3 to 4 feet tall and works well in groupings in the back of a perennial bed. Spikes of red, yellow, white or orange tube-shaped flowers grow from grassy, gray-green foliage.

Foxglove: The tall spires of foxgloves are a vision. They grow as tall as 8 feet and produce tube-shaped flowers in blue, pink or white with deep purple spots on their throats. Technically they’re biennials, meaning they’ll live two years and die. But they’re enthusiastic re-seeders and will act like tall perennial plants, coming back for years.

10 Great Fall Perennials

Keep the flower power going in your garden until the first frost with these beautiful perennials that bloom in the fall.
Summer’s ending but you want the flowers to keep coming in your garden. Don’t worry. There are plants out there that will bloom until the first frost. Here’s a list of fall perennials that will keep the flower power going in your garden:

Aster: Commonly known as New England aster, this sun-loving plant produces dense clusters of daisy-like blooms with purple, pink, blue and white rays and yellow centers. Asters are one of the iconic fall perennials, blooming in later summer and continuing through fall.

Goldenrod: Despite what you’ve heard, goldenrod does not cause hay fever. Ragweed is the culprit that makes you sneeze in the fall. Goldenrod produces clusters of yellow flowers. This is one of the autumn flowering perennials you’ll often see along roadsides and at the edge of woods.

Perennial Sunflower: One of the most summery looking of fall perennials, these sunflowers look like their annual relatives but they bloom late summer and keep making sunny yellow flowers in fall.

Helenium: You don’t usually think of this member of the daisy family when you think of autumn flowering perennials, but its yellow, orange or red flowers bring a zing of color to your garden at the end of the season.

Sedum: This succulent rides out the summer heat and then bursts into bloom in the fall, closing out the growing season with flowers in white, pink, yellow or deep purple. ‘Autumn Joy’ is a popular variety with flowers that turn from pink to copper, just like the trees in fall.

Chrysanthemum: A classic of fall flowering perennials, mums look good in containers or beds. They bloom in shades of white, purple, gold, orange and purple.

Russian Sage: Sages are tough and lovely. Just try to kill one. Russian sage will be one of the last plants in your garden with blooms, its wands of blue-purple flowers atop silvery gray foliage.

Anise Hyssop: This one begins blooming in the summer and keeps making flowers right through fall. It grows to five-feet tall and is covered with spikes of blue-purple flowers that smell like licorice.

Blazing Star: When you’re looking for perennials to plant in the fall, try this tall perennial that produces spikes of fluffy, deep purple flowers. Blazing star can get as tall as five feet so give it room to grow.

Toad Lily: Not many shade plants bloom in the fall, but toad lilies are an exception with their orchid-like blooms. Its delicate, inch-long flowers are white to pale lilac with deep purple spots. It’s one of the most unusual looking perennials to plant in the fall.

10 Long-Flowering Perennials

Bring color to your garden all summer and into fall with these ever-blooming perennials that produce flowers for multiple seasons.
Perennials generally aren’t known for producing endless flowers, like annuals do. Perennials tend to bloom for just one season, putting the bulk of their energy into growing strong roots, not lots of flowers. There are ever-blooming perennials that bloom longer, producing flowers for a couple of season. They’re almost always sun-loving plants, because growing lots of flowers usually takes a lot of sun. Here’s a list of long-flowering perennials that will bring color to your garden all summer and into the fall.

Caryopteris: Also known as blue spirea, this perennial shrub blooms from late summer till early fall. Its flowers range from blue to blue-purple and bloom in round clusters that look like a blue cloud.

Yarrow: This tough plant produces flat-topped clusters of flowers in red, yellow or pink atop ferny, silver-gray foliage. Yarrow blooms from late spring to early fall as long as you keep cutting off the spent flowers.

Pincushion Flower: Dainty blue flowers bloom all summer and into the fall, making pincushion flowers, or scabiosa, one of the longest of the long-flowering plants in a perennial flower bed.

Daylily: There are varieties of daylilies that bloom all summer if you pinch off the spent flowers. Some of most popular of these long-flowering plants are 'Stella de Oro', 'Happy Returns' and 'Stella Supreme'.

Black-Eyed Susan: This iconic flower is one of the most popular of the long-flowering plants. It blooms from early summer to frost. Pinch off spent blooms and the yellow flowers just keep coming and coming and coming.

Hardy Hibiscus: This perennial shrub produces showy blooms the size of dinner plates all summer long. Flowers come in red, pink, white and yellow.

Rose of Sharon: This small tree is an old-fashioned favorite that has made a comeback in the world of long-flowering perennials. A member of the hibiscus family, it produces blooms all summer and into the fall.

Russian Sage: This woody, shrub-like plant produces light blue-purple flowers all summer. It has gray-green foliage that contrasts nicely in a bed of greener plants. It uses little water and thrives in hot, dry conditions.

Coneflowers: Coneflowers bloom all summer, and its flowers last a long time on the stem before fading. It’s a native prairie wildflower that can be grown all over the country. Its flowers come in white and orangey red, but purple is the most common color.

Catmint: One of the sturdiest long-flowering plants, catmint forms a low, rounded mound of silvery blue foliage with spikes of perennial purple flowers that keep coming all summer long. It attracts birds and butterflies and makes a nice cut flower.

8 Popular Perennial Herbs

Want to grow fresh herbs at home? These much-loved perennial herbs can bring goodness to your kitchen year after year.

Everything tastes better with fresh herbs. The best way to avoid the dried stuff in the jars at the grocery is to grow your own fresh herbs. You can grow them indoors on a sunny windowsill, or outdoors in a raised bed or container. Some herbs, like cilantro and basil, are annuals in most places. But others are perennials that can bring goodness to your kitchen for years. Here’s a list of perennial herbs to grow at home.

Chives: Chives are basically tiny onions, but you grow them for their leaves, not their bulbs. These perennial herbs grow in grassy clumps and have hollow leaves. They’re a compact plant that does well in containers. Snip the leaves at any time for cooking.

Rosemary: Native to the Mediterranean, this evergreen shrub likes hot, dry sunny spots. The hardiest varieties can survive Zone 6 winters. Use its needle-like leaves to flavor pork, lamb, chicken or potatoes. It’s also a good ornamental plant for containers or borders.

Mint: This is the toughest of the perennial herbs, growing where others fail. Use it for tea, soups, baked goods and mojitos. Mint can spread aggressively, so it’s a good idea to grow it in containers to keep it from taking over too much real estate in your garden.

Tarragon: This shrubby perennial is a classic French herb that smells and tastes like anise. It’s the main flavoring in béarnaise sauce and is also used to season fish, meats and eggs. Its dark green, lance-shaped leaves can be clipped at any time and used for cooking.

Lavender: This bushy shrub has aromatic purple flowers that are used as a culinary herb, particularly in baked goods and teas. Its oils are also used in cosmetics and soaps. With silvery foliage and a mounding shape, lavender is lovely in an ornamental bed. Give lavender dry soil and full sun.

Oregano: You can’t cook Italian food without oregano. It’s a must for tomato sauces, pizza and Mediterranean cuisine in general. It’s a low-growing herb so it works in containers. Cut its leaves at any time to use in cooking. Pinch off flowers to keep the leaves coming all season.

Sage: One of the most popular perennial herbs, sage has many uses. Besides its use as a culinary herb, it’s also used in cosmetics, perfumes and soaps. Burning sage gets rid of bad odors. You’ll need to replace sage plants every couple of years because it will get woody and produce fewer leaves.

Thyme: The leaves of this low-growing herb bring flavor to vegetables, soups and sauces, and it’s a key ingredient of bouquet garni and herbes de Provence. It likes sun and dry conditions, so plant it in a raised bed or container to keep it high and dry.

8 Best Perennial Shrubs

Looking to plant perennial flowering shrubs? You can't go wrong with these top picks from DIY experts.

Shrubs are a versatile group of plants, offering color, privacy and structure for your landscape, and shelter and food for wildlife. Here’s a list of perennial shrubs to help you pick the right plant for the right place.

Spirea: This easy-to-grow perennial shrub grows four to 10 feet tall and blooms in spring or summer, depending on variety. Spring bloomers bear flowers cascading on arching stems. Summer bloomers are shorter plants with clusters of flowers at the end of branches. Flowers can be white, blue or pink.

Azalea: No Southern garden is complete without beautiful, beloved azaleas. These evergreen perennial shrubs grow as tall as 15 feet, depending on the variety, and are covered in blooms in pink, purple, white or pink in the spring. They’re in the rhododendron family and there are varieties that will can grow in nearly every region.

Hardy Hibiscus: These giant perennial bushes grow to seven feet tall and produce showy blooms the size of dinner plates all summer. Hardy hibiscus looks like a tender tropical plant but can survive winters to Zone 5. Flowers come in jewel tones of red, pink, white and yellow.

Rose of Sharon: This old-fashioned favorite has made a comeback. It’s a tree-sized plant, growing to 12 feet tall and spreading to 10 feet wide. A member of the hibiscus family, these perennial shrubs produce a profusion of blooms in white, pink, red or purple all summer and into the fall.

Camellia: This gorgeous evergreen shrub grows eight to 15 feet tall, depending on the variety. It bears rose-like blooms in red, pink or white, depending on type. Camellias are a fixture in old-fashioned southern gardens where they bloom midwinter. They’re a great cut flower, but only winter hardy to Zone 6.

Viburnum: This spring blooming shrub grows to 15 feet high and bears fragrant flowers in pink and white. These perennial flowering shrubs are tough plants with more than 150 species, some of which can survive winters to Zone 3 (that’s southern Alaska.) Some varieties bear small berries that birds love. Plant a stand of viburnum in the back of a border for a natural screen.

Mock Orange: An easy-to-grow shrub, mock orange grows three to 15 feet tall and up to six feet wide, depending on variety. These perennial bushes bear white flowers in the spring with a heavenly fragrance you can smell a foot away. They tend to be lanky and make excellent screen plants.

Hydrangea: One of the most popular perennial shrubs, hydrangea produces big, showy clusters of flowers on a plant that grows from three to 20 feet high, depending on the variety. They like light shade and need a medium amount of water. Hydrangea blooms in blue, pink, white and purple-blue. They make good specimen plants or arranged in groupings.