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Western Boot Styles

The Western-style riding boot is somewhere between folk art, pop culture, and functional clothing.

Actors have worn them, and so have Presidents — and for that matter, so have actors who became Presidents.

Most men, though, will go through life without ever having tried a cowboy boot on.

My advice? Don’t be that guy. Give it a shot. You don’t have to be a cowboy to wear and appreciate Western boots.

Although you’ll get more use out of them if you take up Western dancing and rodeo — a man can enjoy a touch of Western style in his outfits now and again.

Just like boater shoes aren’t exclusively for New Englanders with their own private yachts, well-dressed men can be comfortable taking the cowboy boot out of the Southwest and into America’s most fashionable cities.

How to do it? Well that’s the purpose of this cowboy boot primer.

Why Western Boots?

For most men, it’s hard to see the point of a fancy Western boot. They’re expensive items, and unless you grew up around men who wore them, they seem more like novelty or costume pieces than anything stylish.

But a savvy dresser can think of a cowboy boot as an outfit’s holdout weapon. At a distance, it looks like a quality leather shoe. Up close, the distinct advantages start to show:

Unique shape. The toe of a cowboy boot doesn’t have to be wickedly thin (although modern fashion tends that way), but it always has a distinct taper. This was originally to help slide in and out of the stirrups more easily, and it still gives your feet an active, dynamic shape that contrasts nicely with more staid dress shoe toes.

Added height. Shorter men have extra reason to love cowboy boots — the heel adds anywhere from a half-inch to nearly two inches of height. Taller men will definitely want a lower-slung “walking heel” style, but particularly short men can sneak another inch or so in by wearing full “cowboy heels.”

Decoration. A plain cowboy boot is a rare thing. There are styles out there for every taste imaginable, and the portion of the boot visible beneath your trouser cuffs can feature everything from leather tooling to contrast-colored stitching and bright vegetable dyes. If you’re fond of memorable footwear, you’ll love cowboy boots.

Uniqueness. Once you get outside of Texas and the Southwest, you’re unlikely to find yourself in a room with another guy wearing Western boots. It gives people something to remember you by.

Fun. Let’s face it, sometimes we all want to cowboy it up a little. Western boots come from a long tradition, both historical and fictional, of American independence and manhood. It’s fun to be a part of that.

Western Boot Parts & Terminology

The first-time buyer is likely to be overwhelmed by the variety of Western boots out there. But if you know some basic terms and styles, it’ll be far less intimidating.

For the most part, all good Western boots should share the same basic characteristics:

Cuban heel. This is mandatory. A boot that doesn’t have an angled, underslung heel of at least 1/2″ or more isn’t really a cowboy boot. Lower heels will be more comfortable to walk in (and are in fact called “walking heels”), while taller heels are more useful for holding your feet in the stirrups when you ride, and give shorter men a bit of an extra boost. Expect heel length to be up to 2 inches, although 1 to 1.5 is normal.

High shaft. The tops of the boots should be up to at least mid-calf. The tops are usually shaped with decorative cut-outs, but can end in a plain, round opening. A classic Western boot usually has a 10- to 14-inch shaft.

No laces. Cowboy boots are pulled on and off. They usually have small leather loops (“bootstraps”) to assist with this, but should not have laces. This also comes from the practical origins; laces could catch on a stirrup when a cowboy fell from his horse or keep him from kicking free if the boot caught, causing him to be dragged and potentially trampled.

Want more information on Western boot toes & heels, leathers, and parts?

Types of Cowboy Boots

Classic Western Boot

This type of cowboy boot is designed with a 1.5-inch angled heel meant to make sure you stay firmly in the saddle. Compared to the traditional riding boots, the classic westerns are easier to not only ride in but also walk. Plus, the unique design of the toe box will protect your toes should a horse step on them.

Stockman

Stockman is an upgrade of the traditional western cowboy boots that were mainly for horse riding. For starters, it has a very short and wide heel. However, it is the deeper scallop and detailed, stylish stitching that set it apart from other cowboy boots.

Buckaroo

Do you want a pair of cowboy boots that will make heads turn? Get some buckaroo boots—they won’t disappoint. If it’s not the long shaft that stretches close to the knees, it’s the detailed stitches or deep scallops that are hard to miss.

Western Work

Western work cowboy boots are not as sophisticated as the other boots listed here. The heel design is similar to those found on the roper. The toe space, on the other hand, is mostly rounded, while the shaft ranges between 9 to 12 inches.

Ropers

Ropers were designed mainly for rodeo cowboys. Their simplistic design makes them easy to walk in. They have one of the lowest heels among cowboy boots, a round toe shape and a flexible sole. If you’re looking for quality ankle support, ropers are your ideal boots.

What to Wear With Cowboy Boots

A good rule for Western-style outfits outside of the American Southwest is one western-themed item per outfit, maximum!

So if you’re wearing a pair of cowboy boots, wear them with a sleek belt and a jacket rather than with a cowboy shirt and a bolo tie. You want to look like you’re making a calculated fashion statement, not trying to dress up in a costume.

Your cowboy boots are going to be social wear rather than business (unless you’re a Texan), so plan to wear them with relaxed jackets and trousers:

Collared shirts are something of a must with cowboy boots, if you’re wearing them to look stylish. A T-shirt and blue jeans with cowboy boots will fit right in at a country music show, but unless that’s where you’re actually going, you should wear something else. A plain white dress shirt works remarkably well, as do more patterned, casual shirts.

Jeans should be dark and close-fitted, not the light blue of typical work jeans. You’ll want a boot-cut style for obvious reasons. Never tuck the jeans into the boots unless you’re doing actual work on horseback that requires it.

Dress trousers can go with cowboy boots as well, and so can casual suits. Just make sure they have enough room in the leg that the boot shaft isn’t making a bulge.

Jackets really help take you from “urban cowboy” to “snappy dresser.” I would almost tell you to never wear cowboy boots without a jacket, at least in a major metropolitan area. It just balances the casual boot style out in a way that a shirt on its own can’t.

Hats are pushing it, but if you really want to hammer the cowboy point home, a nice felt Western-style hat is an obvious complement to Western boots. Don’t do this unless you’re really dedicated to making people instantly think “cowboy” when they look at you, though.

Belts with decorative buckles or leather are always a good companion to cowboy boots. You don’t need a huge silver buckle with turquoise inlays, or a rattlesnake skin belt, but something a little more decorative than your average dress belt goes well.

Denim or leather jackets are a good alternative to the dressier sports jacket. Don’t overdo the casual styling, however — your boots are already pretty casual, so a jacket with lapels is going to be better than one without. Alternatively, a long trench coat is a very natural pairing for Western boots. Avoid billowing leather dusters unless you’re trying to make a costume out of it.

Spurs are for a few specific types of riding. If you’re not planning on hopping on a horse in the immediate future, please don’t wear spurs on your boots.

The goal of all these specific details is to make an outfit that acknowledges your boots without being centered around them.

You want to look comfortable, relaxed, and capable — all the things we associate with cowboys and Western culture.

If you’re in a big city, you also want to look a little dressier than an actual rodeo-going cowboy.

For a fail-safe cowboy boot outfit, try a pair of dark jeans, a white shirt, and a brown or gray jacket with a soft, casual cut. Add a decorative belt and a paisley pocket square to evoke traditional bandanas and you’re looking both stylish and unique.

Where You Should and Shouldn’t Wear Cowboy Boots

If we haven’t made it clear by now, Western-style boots are casual clothing.

They’re not business wear unless your business involves cattle or oil. Every once in a while you’ll see a businessman wearing a fancy suit with cowboy boots, but you don’t want to be that kind of eccentric.

For the most part we recommend keeping the cowboy boots to “fun” social events — things that are actively light-hearted, where a little machismo and a slightly more aggressive style isn’t out of place.

Good places for cowboy boots include:

Most kinds of step dancing — salsa, square, etc.

Bars

Casual restaurants

County/state/grange/etc. fairs

Rock and country concerts

Romantic evening picnics with a loved one

Comedy shows (but if you sit in the front row they might say something)

Absolutely any activity done on horseback

Questionable places to wear cowboy boots, unless they are a normal part of your personal style, include:

First dates (might send the wrong impression)

Political functions of any kind (even just casual fundraisers)

Any presentation that you’re making personally

Long hikes or drives (not comfortable for either)

Upscale theater performances

Modern dance clubs (wrong style, and often hard on the dance floor)

And of course there is some variance here depending on what your boots look like — a pair of white cowboy boots with bright red Texas stars on the toes are going to work in a lot less settings than a pair of deep, oxblood red boots with some decorative stitching in the same color thread. Exercise a little personal judgment, and if your boots are particularly gaudy, a little personal restraint as well.

Drawbacks: A Few Things to Watch For

Western-style boots were originally designed for riding. Some of their defining features are still more useful on horseback than they are on foot, though most manufacturers these days assume their customers are more likely to be making the rounds at a bar than a pasture.

A few things to watch for with your cowboy boots:

Sizing challenges. The lathes — foot-shaped molds — that each company uses to craft its boots are different, and often a guarded secret. A boot from one manufacturer might fit great, and a boot in the exact same size from the competitor will pinch. That makes cowboy boots especially hard to shop for online, or for people with unusual sizes.

Narrow toes. The extreme taper you see on a lot of boots is a recent stylistic development, and it’s not a very practical one. If you’ve got a broad foot, look for boots that start the taper relatively close to the toes and don’t narrow off too sharply. Too tight of a toe will make the boot chafe as you walk, or will put pressure on the toe bones, which will cause aching.

Break-in time. The high shafts and stiff sides of a cowboy boot take time to break in. Be aware that you’ll want a little bit of a loose feeling in the heel of a new boot — as the sides break in, your heel will slide further back and fill that. If you buy a brand new boot with no slippage, it’ll pinch the heel once it breaks in.

All in all, these are minor drawbacks — practical necessities of the boots’ working heritage, and easily overcome with a little time and savvy shopping. It’s a little more work than picking out a pair of new dress shoes, but the look you get from it is a lot more dramatic too.

The Western Boot in Non-Western Settings

Slipping a pair on for the first time may feel strange to a lifetime dress-shoe-and-sneakers man, but you’ll quickly come to enjoy the assertive sound of the heels and the elegant shape of the tapered toe.

Wearing a Western boot with a non-Western outfit is an exercise in the art of restraint and balance.

Let the boots talk for themselves, and keep the rest of the outfit simple and strong — values any cowboy can appreciate.

A Summary of Western Boot Types

Boot Type	Shaft Height	Heel (Height, Shape)	Toe (Shape)	Lace-Up	Sole	Relative Cost
Cowboy Boots	Mid-calf (around 11-12")	Around 1½", angled	Pointed, flattened or slightly rounded	No	Smooth leather, may have heel cap	Highly variable
Riding Boots	Mid to upper calf (around 12-13")	Around 2", angled	Pointed or only slightly rounded	No	Smooth leather	Mid-range
Ropers	Between ankle and mid-calf (around 7-10")	Less than 1½", squared-off "Roper" heel	Rounded or squared	On some styles	Variable, often with tread and traction rubber	Low to mid-range
Work-Western Boots	Mid-calf or lower (around 9-12")	1¾" or less	Rounded or slightly tapered	On some styles	Variable, often with tread and traction rubber	Low
Western Fashion Boots	Variable	Usually over 1½", variable	Variable	On some styles	Variable, often with tread	Highly variable

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Most recent revision July 26, 2025 11:53:22 AM

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